Tracy Nieporent

Why did you get involved with City Harvest?
We have been working with City Harvest for 20 years. We started during our first years in the restaurant business, when we had small quantities of food left over that we didn't want to go to waste. We grew up in New York City, and were very disturbed by the ordeals of poor and hungry New Yorkers.

Why is hunger an important issue for you?
We were very influenced by Harry Chapin, who was an empathetic performer and a strong voice in the fight against hunger. He had a wonderful, generous, spirit, and we paid close attention when he said about his career – "I play one night for myself, and the next night for the other guy."

How has your involvement with City Harvest affected your outlook on food and/or hunger in New York City?
We are in the business of feeding and nurturing our guests. It is unacceptable that in a city with such extensive talent and resources that anyone should be going hungry here. City Harvest offers a tangible, multifaceted, and highly effective program for feeding people. There are many important causes, but for us, none more than this. The City Harvest Trucks represent hope and genuine caring for our fellow New Yorkers.

What is you favorite hidden gem of a restaurant in New York?
I can't choose just one, because we are fortunate to have the very finest restaurants in America right at our doorstep in NYC. Our city's Restaurant Week is the single largest culinary event in the entire country, with over 250 restaurants of every size, style, and ethnicity. It’s a great excuse to revisit a favorite restaurant or try a new one, and there's nothing anywhere else that can match it. I am obviously partial to the restaurants in our Myriad Group, but there are so many good choices available.

What inspired you to get into the restaurant business?
When we were kids, our Dad did legal work for restaurants, and we often went out as a family for dinner. We went to many different types of restaurants, and it was very exciting to try different foods and see the mesmerizing decors. It was very theatrical, plus we got to meet many of the restaurateurs and chefs. They were passionate people, with a genuine love of extending hospitality, and they had admirable work ethics. They were representative of an honest, honorable business.

How is the economy affecting the restaurant community?
This is probably the most challenging time that we've ever faced in the restaurant business. Even in the best of times, restaurants operate on very tight profit margins. If you have all of your costs in line, you may make a dime on the dollar. That's not very much, and most restaurants earn as little as a nickle or a penny on the dollar, if they're making any money at all. What allows a restaurant to stay in business is volume. A dime on the dollar isn't much unless you can accumulate a lot of dimes. Unfortunately, in this economy, volume is way down in most places. That means that many excellent restaurants may no longer be financially viable.

Why do you feel that it is important for New Yorkers to continue dining out during an economic downturn?
Dining out is more than simply filling one's stomach. It's also a social experience that can help nurture one's soul. We provide the setting for our guests to have little two hour vacations . We all have concerns and anxieties, and when you're dining with friends and family, you can confront these issues and perhaps achieve a sense of well being. When you think about meaningful moments in your life, they often occur at the dining table, with people who are dear to you.

What is your advice for people dining out on a tight budget?
Everyone has to live within their means. In New York City, we have many dining options, so there's a viable price point for everyone. Living on a budget doesn't have to mean deprivation. Depending on where you shop for food and dine, it's not necessarily more expensive to dine out than it is to cook at home. The cost differences are related to the skills of professional cooking, presentation, and service. Sometimes, after a full day's work, it's more enjoyable to be catered to, than to cook and wash the dishes. So, make your choices wisely, at whatever level is affordable to you, and try to support your local restaurants. If you don't, they won't be around.

What is your favorite spring meal?
The renewal of spring and summer brings a bounty of good things into the kitchen. I love heirloom tomatoes, soft shell crabs, cold soups like gazpacho, lobsters, shrimp, and the like.

What can you not live without in your kitchen?
My wife, Amy. Seriously, I am devoid of any real talent in the kitchen. I am good at heating things up, but if I had to cook from scratch... I'd be at least a hundred pounds lighter. Amy keeps me well fed and has been doing so for over 33 years.

What is in your refrigerator?
Salsas, bacon, grated cheeses, blueberries, bottled waters, juices, ice cream, yogurt, and soy milk. It's an eclectic mix.

What is your favorite junk food?
My downfall is potato chips. The Kettle Spicy Thai, and Trader Joe's Barbecue Popped Potato Chips are particularly addictive. It's easy to polish off a bag at one sitting, and that's something that the surgeon general would probably not advise. I also love chocolate in its many manifestations.

I am thinking about opening up my own restaurant. What advice can you give me?
Opening a restaurant, particularly in today's teetering economy, is not for the faint of heart. It requires a lot of money, a clear vision, and tremendous passion, energy, and commitment. Many people see themselves at the front door, greeting famous guests, and basking in the light of celebrity and acclaim. That can happen, but it's a very small part of the business. Most of your time is spent problem solving, and the hours can be very long, pulling you away from your family and friends. When everyone else is playing, and enjoying a holiday, you may well be at work. On the other hand, it is a business that draws people together and makes them happy. Some nights when I visit our restaurants, and see that we're busy, and that our guests are enjoying themselves, I am heartened by the satisfaction of knowing that we created something that is important to people. So, if you're truly passionate about serving people and are willing to devote your full energy to it, you have a chance to realize your dream.

What is it like working with your brother?
I love my brother, and I love working with him. There is never a dull moment.

Why did you locate so many of your restaurants in the downtown area? Do you have other favorite culinary neighborhoods in NYC?
We grew up “downtown” in Peter Cooper Village, and our dad and uncle had offices at Broadway and Chambers Street, so we've got history and an affinity for the downtown area. From a practical standpoint, the rents were reasonable back in 1985, when Drew was looking for the space that became Montrachet, and is now Corton. We encourage people to "Eat Downtown" because, block for block we feel that there are many outstanding restaurants in this part of town. There are wonderful restaurants in many other NYC neighborhoods as well, but we don't have a favorite destination.

Have you seen any trends in the kinds of restaurants opening now?
Trends come and go. But some things are timeless, like love. I think, more than ever before, guests are looking to get a respite from the pressures of day-to-day life. They're looking for real value, and personal touches that show that the restaurant cares. What is the relationship between the restaurant owner and the executive chef when they are not the same person? (or, How do you choose your executive chef when you are opening a new restaurant?)
Restaurants are a collaborative business. It's extremely demanding, and very few people have the creativity, business sense, and marketing acumen to do everything well. Drew has a great eye for talent and for nuturing it so that it produces a great result. We've been fortunate to work with chefs that have strong work ethics and the ability to inspire colleagues and diners alike. Being in this business continues to be an amazing journey, and I look forward to the future with a sense of great anticipation.

• At the Chef's Table
• The Food Council